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Lisbon is one of Europe's fastest-changing cities. Visiting during its coming-of-age means seeing what's ahead, while still feeling immersed in its colorful history—from its hypnotic, Atlantic-blue azulejo-tiled facades to it's undulating streets cobbled with handmade calçada Portuguesa. That mix extends beyond just optics: A new contingent of chefs, both local and international, are cresting a wave of modern Portuguese cuisine.

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A Cevicheria, a tiny restaurant on trendy Principe Real, stops pedestrians in their tracks when they see the giant Instagram-famous octopus sculpture dangling above the dining room like a nautical chandelier. Given its name, it’s no surprise that ceviche is the star of the menu at chef Kiko Martin’s restaurant. But this is elevated ceviche, not your standard vacation-resort stuff. There are approximately four to choose from, from the ceviche puro, made with seasonal white fish, sweet potato, and seaweed, to salmon ceviche with mango and orange. A devoted Peruvian restaurant, A Cevicheria worships the altar of pisco, and it would be sacrilegious to start a meal with anything other than the house pisco sour.